Roagna

VINTAGE 2016

Vinous – 98+
The 2016 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé is hauntingly beautiful. Light on its feet and deceptive in its medium-bodied feel, the 2016 is a mere infant. Scents of macerated red cherry, blood orange, leather, sweet spice and pipe tobacco open gradually. The 2016 is a stunning, riveting Barbaresco in every way, not to mention a highlight in a range full of compelling wines. All it needs is time in bottle to shed some tannin. The long, dynamic finish is breathtaking.

Wine Advocate – 100
The Roagna 2016 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé label displays artwork that pays homage to revolution and labor—two themes reflected at the very heart of Barbaresco production. Alfredo Roagna used to say, “This wine needs to go in many directions,” and by that he meant it requires additional time before embarking on its final aging trajectory. This is the main reason we see this bottle come to market so much later than its peers. Even now, tasted upon its release, it shows a complete bouquet with compact fruit flavors of redcurrant, bright lilac and crushed stone. It remains tightly assembled with elegantly chalky tannins. Its complexity is on full display today, but more cellar aging will relax and soften the finish.

Wine Spectator – 99
The aromas are subdued, yet the flavors come alive, with steeped plum, cherry, coffee, tar, licorice and sweet spice notes. This washes across the palate like cashmere, leaving a refreshing aftertaste that lasts for minutes. Impressive. Like Escenzia to Tokaji, this is stripped down to the essence of the grape and its soil and geology. Drink now through 2045. 140 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 96+
The 2019 Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti is a wild, exotic wine. Ethereal and deceptively medium in body, the dark fruit is perfumed. The weight and gravitas of the old vines are palpable, and yet, somehow, the 2019 remains light on its feet. The aromatics alone are beguiling. The 2019 just needs time to be at its most expressive.

Wine Advocate – 98
Asili’s ace card is elegance. Montefico has especially fragrant aromas, and Pajè is distinguished by its structure. That textural richness comes from the advanced age and deep roots of 80-year-old vines. The Roagna 2019 Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti was born in an amphitheater of vines on limestone soils. The top part of the vineyard where the mineral signature is more pronounced goes to the Barbaresco Crichët Pajé, and the remaining fruit is used here. The wine shows a combination of sweetness and power with chalky tannins to close. Of the four Vecchie Viti wines (including three Barbarescos and one Barolo), this is the last wine served in the tasting. Luca Roagna makes this choice because the Pajè Vecchie Viti shows the biggest tannic structure. The Vecchie Viti wines will hit the market in January or February 2025.

Wine Spectator – 98
Shows an extra dimension of viscosity and energy, with cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, mineral and licorice flavors. Verging on racy, offering lively acidity and dense yet refined tannins, this red is still on the reticent side, yet with all its components in the right place and superb potential. Best from 2027 through 2047. 285 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 99
The 2019 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti is one of the most profoundly riveting, beautiful wines I have ever tasted here. Interestingly, this is more open than the straight Pira because of its inner perfume and sweetness. Hard candy, rose petals, mint, orange peel and kirsch all race across the palate. The 2019 is just dazzling. There’s not much to say.

Wine Advocate – 98
The Roagna 2019 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from a 1.5-hectare plot with vines planted in 1937. Part of the vineyard is on its original roots, and some of the ungrafted vines were reproduced by using the shoots of a mother vine buried underground, thus creating a new plant. The site tends to be among the last to harvest in October. This is an incredible expression of Nebbiolo, fluid and luminous. It changes constantly with delicate swirls. However, you also feel the power and intensity of a concentrated vintage. The bouquet opens to a hint of something botanical with flowers and fresh mint that give enormous vertical lift to the wine. Luca Roagna tells me that wild mint does in fact grow throughout the vineyard, and when he drives his tractor through the rows, he is reminded of an exotic mojito cocktail.

Wine Spectator – 98
Aromas of cardamom and white pepper are an ideal foil for this red’s strawberry, cherry, floral, mineral and eucalyptus flavors. Though linear in profile, this builds in intensity to the long, kaleidoscopic aftertaste. Still a touch austere yet almost creamy in texture, this need another three to five years to open up. Best from 2028 through 2047.  

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 96
The 2019 Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti is terrific, but it will also need time to be at its finest. It offers a captivating mix of Asili’s inner perfume and the youthful austerity that is so typical of the year. Kirsch, cinnamon, sweet spice, mint, cedar and pipe tobacco open with some coaxing. Patience will be absolutely critical here. What a gorgeous wine this is.

Wine Advocate – 98
This is an incredibly elegant expression of Nebbiolo derived from a 0.22-hectare plot that was purchased in 1961. There is a crazy story behind the acquisition involving Luca’s grandfather and the previous owner who apparently was especially unlucky at cards. The Roagna 2019 Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti is especially polished and fine with an almost glossy texture. This lucky vineyard is covered with a unique permaculture, including wild grasses. Luca Roagna does not till the land and he leaves that green regenerative cover crop untouched. The wine is lean and light in appearance, but again in typical Roagna fashion, the delicate look of the wine comes in contrast to the complexity, depth and power on offer.

Wine Spectator – 98
Lithe and elegant, this red is also spicy, its white pepper aligning with the vibrant backbone of acidity to define flavors of cherry, strawberry, currant, rose hip and mint. As this builds to the finish, a mineral element emerges, along with dense, refined tannins. Best from 2028 through 2047. 100 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 97
The 2019 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is a heady, explosive wine. Bright, focused and energetic, the 2019 screams with Montefico character. Crushed rocks, slate, mint, white pepper, dried cherry and chalk are some of the many notes that inform this taut, vibrant Barbaresco. Clean mineral notes extend the finish effortlessly. The Montefico is often one of my favorites in the range. The 2019 is truly special. What a wine!

Wine Advocate – 97
The 2019 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti comes from a parcel that was given as a dowry gift in 1929, thus changing hands to the Roagna family. It measures 0.24 hectares and production remains very limited at 1,222 bottles. Montefico tends to be more aromatic compared to Asili, and it reveals many layers of complexity that change rapidly and with fluidity. It starts off with a floral signature of roses and violets and then cedes to redcurrant and spicy licorice. The quality of the firm tannins in 2019 is terrific, and the acidity is spot on. There are elegant chalky sensations to close on this cellar-worthy Nebbiolo.

Wine Spectator – 98
There’s plenty of flesh embracing the macerated cherry, strawberry, anise, iron and alpine herb aromas and flavors. Firm, bordering on austere even, yet balanced and super long, with an aftertaste of fruit and mineral. Alluring from the get-go, this is accessible despite its firm structure. Best from 2026 through 2045. 102 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 96
The 2019 Barbaresco Pajè is a step up from the first Barbarescos in this range. Its depth is apparent even from the color. Deeply pitched spice notes meld into a core of dark-toned fruit. Leather, incense, licorice and scorched earth follow, adding layers of dimension. This fabulous edition of the Pajè is notable for its textural resonance and overall presence.

Wine Advocate – 96
Luca Roagna’s father was born in 1953, and that year also marks the first vintage this wine was produced by Luca’s grandfather Alfredo, who was deeply convinced by the potential of this vineyard and went into deep financial debt after the war in order to purchase this land. The 2019 Barbaresco Pajè is muscular and firm with dark fruit and grippy tannins. There is a chalky quality that reflects the site’s limestone soils. Delivering ample heft and dimension, this is a wine of substance

Wine Spectator – 96
Ripe with cherry, raspberry, alpine herb, mineral and anise flavors, this red is both fluid and solidly built. The tannins are fine-grained, while the vivid acidity drives its long, complex aftertaste. Offers terrific persistence and expression. Best from 2027 through 2043. 491 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 97
The 2019 Barolo Pira is powerful and deep, but also very closed. There’s so much energy here, but readers will have to be patient, as this classically austere young Barolo clearly needs time. Hints of pine, menthol, licorice and dried herbs appear with some reluctance. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Superb.

Wine Advocate – 96
Located next to Rocche di Castiglione, the Roagna family has the monopoly on the Pira vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. Luca Roagna’s parents bought this plot in 1990,m and vine age varies from 35 to 60 years old. Different soils types are spread throughout the parcels. The 2019 Barolo Pira shows a beautiful mineral note with a metallic side that comes through with blazing intensity. It matches earthy sensations and pretty floral notes. This is a wine of exceptional depth and luminosity.

Wine Spectator – 96
A distinctive white pepper aroma leads off, followed by flavors of strawberry, sour cherry, mint, menthol and iron. Despite the lightness and ethereal quality, the texture reveals viscosity and intensity. Balanced and complex, ending with terrific length. Best from 2027 through 2045.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 95+
The 2019 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is all sensuality. Silky, aromatic and super-expressive, the 2019 Rocche is all class. Crushed flowers, spice, leather and crushed red berry fruit all grace this wonderfully nuanced, sublime Barolo. All the elements are so well-balanced. Silky tannins pull it all together on the finish, and this builds beautifully over time.

Wine Advocate – 97+
The Roagna 2019 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione comes from a 0.49-hectare parcel that was purchased in 2016. The vineyards lay adjacent to Pira, thus opening the possibility for the Roagna family to buy this land. The vines average 50 years old, and the plan is to eventually have this wine join the Vecchie Viti series. Because this is only the fourth year of production, that remains a goal for the future. This distinctive site, one of my personal favorites in the Barolo appellation, always delivers special sharpness and linear focus. You get that here along with a very long finish. The wine has muscle, but it also shows supple roundness and ample fruit weight. This is a wine to watch.

Wine Spectator – 95
Focused and linear, this red starts with mint, cherry, rose and mineral aromas and flavors before turning more savory as it builds to the finish. Elegant and detailed, the aftertaste echoes fruit and balsamic elements aligned with a mouthwatering impression. The most approachable of the Roagna 2019s. Best from 2026 through 2040. 260 cases made.

Vintage 2019

Vinous – 92
The 2019 Barolo del Comune di Barolo is stellar. Elegant and polished, the 2019 is super-expressive right out of the gate. I tasted it after all the big guns in the range (twice!), and it had no problem following them. This is one of the more open-knit, accessible wines in the Roagna range, but don’t let that fool you. It is a very serious wine. Crushed flowers, mint, licorice, spice and dried herbs open in the glass, all framed by the veins of minerality that are such a signature at Terlo.

Wine Advocate – 96
With only 912 bottles produced, the Roagna 2019 Barolo del Comune di Barolo sees its fruit sourced from the Terlo vineyard, which measures a mere 0.17 hectares. Luca Roagna believes that his tiny piece of Terlo behaves differently compared to its peers (and differently compared to the neighboring La Coste and Ravera crus). That’s why he prefers to give it a non-MGA village designation. Those sites show more finesse, and Terlo is more earthy in character, he explains. There is indeed a suave organic sweetness to this wine. It comes forward as redcurrant, iris root and potting soil.

Wine Spectator – 94
Aromas of macerated cherry, strawberry and rose mark this supple, elegant red. Iron, tar and menthol elements seep in as this builds to the long, delineated aftertaste. Vibrant and tangy. Best from 2027 through 2043.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 95
The 2019 Barbaresco Albesani is a haunting, gorgeous wine. Sweet macerated cherry, kirsch, dried herbs, mint, leather and orange peel lift from the glass. A Barbaresco of exotic beauty and elegance, the 2019 Albesani has so much to offer. It’s not an immediate wine, yet its charm can’t be denied. This deceptively mid-weight Barbaresco just needs time to be at its best. I especially admire its inner sweetness. Cinnamon, dried red cherry, menthol and cedar linger on the beguiling, structured finish.

Wine Advocate – 95
The Albesani vineyard lies near Gallina and shares similar exposures and growing conditions. Albesani, however, is planted in part to very old vines, and there is more active limestone in the white soils and maybe a little less sand. The Roagna 2019 Barbaresco Albesani presents an impressive bouquet with a wide span of aromas that start off with blue flower and pressed rose and extend gently to iron ore and crushed stone. There is a ferrous quality as well. The wine is light and translucent in appearance, but don’t underestimate the power it delivers to the palate. Albesani is especially marked in terms of its tannic structure.

Wine Spectator – 98
There’s fluidity and viscosity to the texture in this red, setting the stage for its macerated cherry, strawberry, rose hip, hay and eucalyptus flavors. This features an underlying mineral element too, which works in tandem with the vibrant acidity and firm, refined tannins. Long and complex. Best from 2028 through 2050. 352 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 93
The 2019 Barbaresco Gallina is a very pretty, almost ethereal wine for a site that often yields more fruity Barbaresco. The aromatics are especially open at this stage, even with its recent bottling. Silky tannins and mid-weight structures are the signatures. Dark red cherry, leather, spice and menthol linger on the sublime finish. It would certainly not be a crime to drink this on the younger side.

Wine Advocate – 95
Of the three single-vineyard Barbarescos produced by Luca Roagna, Gallina tends to be finest and the most delicate. This parcel was leased up until one year ago when Luca was finally able to buy it. It measures one hectare and is characterized by sandy soils. These conditions give rise to floral perfumes with sweet, soapy aromas of lavender and lilac. The 2019 Barbaresco Gallina is underpinned by a long sense of silkiness and finesse. The tannins are sweet, and the wine shows ample energy before closing with polished intensity.

Wine Spectator – 97
The aromas are still a little shy, hinting at cherry and rose, with a solid core of cherry, strawberry, rose, white pepper and stony mineral flavors. Yet it’s the energy in this red that’s compelling, exerting itself from beginning to end. Offers superb elegance and harmony on a linear frame. Best from 2027 through 2050. 369 cases made.

VINTAGE 2022

Vinous – 92
The 2022 Solea is a unique blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Nebbiolo. Orchard fruit, white flowers, lemon peel and white pepper are all nicely articulated. Bright and vibrant, with mid-weight structure, Solea is also incredibly distinctive. Drink it over the next few years.

Wine Advocate – 93
This is a curious blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Nebbiolo (vinified as a white wine). The 2022 Langhe Solea was imagined by Luca Roagna’s father in the 1970s. The family wanted to introduce a white wine and in fact experimented with sparkling Nebbiolo before ultimately settling on this combination of grapes. Nebbiolo adds the acidity and some of the crunch, whereas the Chardonnay adds the texture. The must is oxidized, almost brown, and requires one night to settle. The wine ferments naturally and spends two years in one oak cask on the lees with no movement. The idea is to create a reductive environment. It shows generous orchard fruit, peach and a sweet almond flavor.

Wine Spectator – 90
Starts out broad and chalky, evoking apple, pear, lemon and mineral flavors. Turns more linear and elegant as this lingers on the refined aftertaste. A well-defined, unadorned style. Chardonnay and Nebbiolo. Drink now through 2030. 238 cases made.

VINTAGE 2022

Vinous – 92
Luca Roagna’s 2022 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is a gorgeous, exotic white. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and herbs build beautifully over time. Attractive floral overtones and silky contours give this creamy, layered Timorasso notable finesse.

Wine Advocate – 94
The Roagna family started making this wine in 2014 and were among the first to focus on Timorasso. A family cousin lives in the Colli Tortonesi and sold them a tiny piece of land. The idea was: why not try a white wine? The 2022 Derthona Montemarzino opens to soft intensity with honey, melon and acacia flower. Compared to the Solea (Chardonnay and Nebbiolo), which is sharper and fresher, this wine offers depth and textural richness. It shows a saturated golden color, and the oak integration is seamless. It has the basic qualities for decent cellar aging.

Wine Spectator – 90
This savory white features malt, honey, earth and bitter grapefruit flavors, all surrounding a core of peach fruit. Both tangy, courtesy of the acidity, and salty, with a long, mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2030. 218 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 90
Just bottled, the 2023 Dolcetto d’Alba is aromatic, gracious and light on its feet. Crushed flowers, spice, licorice, leather and blue-toned fruit all grace this understated Dolcetto. The 2023 spent nearly 90 days on the skins, followed by aging in cask and cement. Like so many wines in this vintage, the Dolcetto is on the lighter side.

Wine Spectator – 88
This red isn’t too ambitious, just lets its vibrant cherry and blackberry fruit shine. A light grip of tannins graces the finish. Drink now. 1,250 cases made.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 92
The 2019 Barbera d’Alba is a wine of exquisite finesse. Deep and pliant yet not at all heavy, it exudes balance. Crushed flowers, mint, blood orange, raspberry and sweet spice all meld together. Although 2019 does not have the power of some previous years, it more than makes up for that with its polished, utterly sensual personality.

VINTAGE 2019

Vinous – 92
The 2019 Langhe Rosso is fabulous. It captures all the pedigree of this great vintage but in a slightly more open style (especially in its aromatics) that renders it quite approachable. Crushed flowers, dried cherry, spice, mint and sweet pipe tobacco are all nicely lifted. Already quite approachable, the 2019 is ready to go. The 2019 is Pira’s young vines Nebbiolo. About two-thirds of the fruit is from Pira; the rest is Albesani, Gallina and Paje. Aging is a bit more than two years in cask, a touch less than in the past.

Wine Advocate – 94
Luca Roagna likes to joke that this is the worst wine he makes. “It is made with all the leftovers,” he says. The 2019 Langhe Rosso sees Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco, pretty much in equal parts. There is some Pira and Pajè along with young vine fruit from other parcels, some of which suffered mudslide damage in the 1990s and required replanting. This wine was first produced in 2000. The labor required to make it is intense because Luca needs to scope out the young vines buried within a rich patrimony of old vines. “I am a squarehead,” he says. This entry-level wine is a provocation. In fact, it could technically be classified as Barolo or Barbaresco if it were not a blend of the two appellations. It sees the same five-year winemaking and oak aging regime as those wines. The 2019 vintage shows good concentration, balanced acidity and a firm backbone. There’s a lot of fresh fruit here with pressed flowers and roses.

Wine Spectator – 89
Aromas of eucalyptus, iron and underbrush are offset by flavors of cherry and plum in this mature Nebbiolo. There’s a vestige of ripe fruit as this winds down on the finish, and overall, this is balanced and long. Drink now.